TOOL LIST AND GUIDE
shopping list
measuring and marking tools
2B Soft leaded pencil
Eraser
Sharpener
Long steel rule
Short steel rule
Retractable tape measure
Try square OR
Combination Square
Marking Gauge
sawing tools and aids
Tenon Saw
Bench hook
Bevel edged Chisel 18m or 19mm
Wooden Mallet
clamping
1 large G clamp or F clamp 150mm wide or that can fit around your
work surface, your project and a piece of waste at one time, for chiselling.
If you need it instead of a vise, it will need to fit across the leg of your work table plus
your project and some waste. See photo under alternative ways to clamp in the your toolbox section
4 quick grip Clamps 600mm long (or over if your project requires)
gluing and nailing tools and materials
PVA glue 1 oz
10 Bullet 25mm long head nails
Panel pins
Panel saw or
Electric Jig saw
4mm thick Plywood or backing you choose
(When you have completed your Cutting List,
you will know what size to buy.) continued…..
finishing tools
Nail punch
Putty
Sandpaper 240grit and 400grit
Sanding cork block or homemade wood block
Electric Sander (Optional)
Oil or finish or your choice
tool guide
romancing with tools
These days there is so much choice when it comes to tools, that it’s hard to know where to start looking. Do you
buy a cheaper tool that’s in your budget and wait to save for a more expensive one? The answers aren’t always
clear particularly if you have had no experience in using them to compare, but for this project at least you can find
some tips and information on what to buy. I’m always looking for value for money without compromising on the
tool doing a good job. Buying tools with good brand names is a good start, but some cheaper brands are adequate
for certain jobs.
what to look for, what to buy and a shopping list
workbench alternatives
Once you have some skills you can make your own workbench and a fit a vise for a life time of building
enjoyment. But for now a cheaper makeshift solution could be using a wooden outdoor table. They are often heavy
and will withstand the hammering and sawing vibrations. Buy a sheet of 4mm or 6mm thin ply to protect it from
damage. This will also help to provide a flat working surface. Any sturdy table or bench is good as long as there is
somewhere to clamp the wood upright while sawing the rebate joint. (see step six)
Two saw horses with a solid door clamped across might work. It tends to be a bit low for sawing and chiselling.
It’s preferable to have something around your waist height.
portable work table
They vary enormously in price and quality so you will need to shop around. They fold up for convenience.
vise
Groz portable vise. Check that this type of vise fits the edge of the work surface you are attaching it to. Also you
will need to attach wooden bits to the vise to protect your project from the metal jaws.
You can contact them at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
2b soft leaded pencil
What not to buy: Hard leaded pencils such as HB types can dig into your wood and indents are difficult to remove,
even with sandpaper. Big flat carpenter’s pencils are not suitable for joinery as the lead is too thick and too dark
(which makes it harder to remove.)
Tip: Use your soft leaded pencil lightly and always keep your pencil sharpened to a point for accurate marking.
The width of a thick pencil line can make a difference to your measurements!
sharpener You may need to use it two or three times during marking to keep your pencil sharp.
What to buy: a bright colour is easily visible.
eraser What to buy: a soft white type is good. Test that yours doesn’t make more mess than it’s worth.
Tip: It is better to rub out pencil lines rather than wait to sand them as the lead can be pushed into the grain with
the sandpaper.
long rule
What to buy: preferably one marked in millimetres rather than centimetres.
It needs to be easy to read and flat.
Where to buy: You can get away with a cheap one from a cheap tool shop, (I have several) but you might have to
put up with it being marked in centimetres and not quite a full metre in length. Spend over $30 for one at a
hardware or tool shop and you will get years of service.
A new measure on the market is from Pro called a Quicky. It’s small and compact and will sit flat on your wood
and is very accurate. It rolls up small and is under $20. go to www.woodworkforwomen.com.au for the link
short steel rule
Useful to measure depths of joints and width of wood. If you don’t mind converting from centimetres to
millimetres then you can get one in the stationary section at the supermarket for a couple of dollars.
What to Buy: Pay between $8 and $15 for one marked in millimetres from a tool shop.
retractable tape measure
A retractable tape measure is used to measure long lengths of timber. It’s great for when you are selecting wood
from the hardware shop or wood yard.
The metal hook at the end of the tape hooks over the end of the wood, which means it’s not useful if you are
wanting to work from a line marked across your wood, which is often the case when joining wood.
Owning both a retractable tape measure and a long steel rule is really useful as they do different jobs.
What to Buy: Inexpensive ones are okay. Again, try to buy one marked in mms. 3m to 5m in length is enough so
they are light and comfortable to use.
try square
What to Buy:
150mm long blade – longer and its too unwieldy
In a good quality try square the handle, called the stock, often has a brass face added to its inside edge. This adds
stiffening and strength to keep the tool at 90 deg. However metal handled ones are good too.
Look for lightweight. You want it to fit comfortably in your hand. New ones are often sealed in packaging and this
makes it difficult to test, so ask the shopkeeper if they are prepared to refund your money if you find the blade is
not at right angles to the handle. You may get an odd look but seriously, I have returned a few in my time. Always
ask second hand tool dealers the same question or test it on the spot. A square that isn’t at 90 degrees is useless as
the whole point in woodwork is to be as square and precise as possible.
How to check if your square is out of square
Push the handle up firmly against a straight edge of wood or a table
Draw a line (lightly) with your pencil against the outer edge of the blade.
Flip the square over and draw a second line close to the first.
If the lines a parallel, the square is accurate, if not replace it.
combination square
This tool is a good compromise over the traditional try square although there are pluses and minuses.
An all-metal combination square functions as a try square but also has a sliding 300mm blade which is useful when
using wider boards further down the track. The blade can also slide to lengths under 300mm and can also be used
to mark parallel lines on wood. It has a 45 degree angle useful for making picture frame joints called mitres. The
tiny spirit level (the one with the bubble in it) is handy for checking that the shelf you are attaching to a wall is
level.
It is held and used in the same way as the traditional try square. The downside is that they are a little heavier and
more unwieldy to handle and the blade is longer than required for this project. The nut that locks the blade in
position of 90 degrees can be lost if your nut becomes loose.
What to buy: Pay over $20 to ensure decent and accurate engineering. Be aware that they can rust quickly and must
be maintained (see tool care section) however some brands coat them with a protective layer.
marking gauge
What to buy: Pay $20 and over for new and between $5 and $10 for secondhand.
What to look for: Second hand – Check the pin is sharp and is protruding at least 4mm.
Undo the nut and make sure the stock slides up and down smoothly. Tighten the nut, and give it a light tug to check
the stock will hold in place.
Tip: There is another similar gauge, called a Mortise Gauge useful to mark mortise and tenon joints. There are
often three pins on this tool, two on one side and one on the other, so that it can double as a marking gauge. It’s
easy to injure fingers on the extra pins while learning, so I advise settling for a Marking Gauge to start with.
Although I highly recommend using one of these tools, if you can’t buy, borrow or get hold of one, you can use a
pencil line and a sharp blade to achieve a similar result.
tenon saw
What to buy: You have two choices:
Choice 1.
The traditional wooden handled saw, with quality steel blade and rigid brass back, made in Australia, Europe, USA
or Scandinavia.
Advantages:
They wear well if used and maintained properly. No tree pruning with it! (see tool care section) and can last a
lifetime. The weight adds stability when sawing.
The steel teeth edge may be re-sharpened.
There is a choice of fine or medium teeth. The finer, the longer it takes to saw.
Handles may be replaced. Wooden handles are comfortable.
Disadvantages:
When learning, they are heavier and difficult to control.
The teeth need to be sharpened professionally, once or twice a year depending on use. Ask your local hardware
shop if they offer this service.
They are expensive. To secure quality, you need to spend over $60 and buy ones made in the countries listed
above.
What to look for Second Hand.
Some old saws are lovely to look at but it doesn’t mean that they will work perfectly even if they have been
restored. You will pay between $5 and $30. Check for a sound handle with no cracks or wobbles and that no teeth
are missing. Sight along the blade to check it is straight. It may be blunt and the only way to test it is by using it.
Tip: Remember the finer the teeth, the finer the cut and the more slowly it will cut through the wood.
These are more suited to making dovetails joints.
Choice 2.
Along with all the poor quality tools on the market now, there are also cheaper tools that work well and last. One
example is the Jack Tenon Saw by Irwin.
Advantages:
Light and easy to control especially when learning.
Extremely sharp. Will last up to a year or even longer if used and maintained carefully and is used mainly on
softwoods.
They are comfortable to hold.
It is relatively inexpensive costing between $18 and $27
Disadvantage: They cannot be re-sharpened and when blunt they need to be thrown away (or it could be turned into
a wonderful piece of art.)
bench hook
A bench hook is a very simple aid for cross cutting with a handsaw. It will help you to saw straight and square and
prevents the wood from splintering underneath.
The bench hook provides a stop to rest your wood against while cutting and helps support the saw to remain
upright. Your bench hook is expendable and sacrificial.
Bench hooks are made of three pieces of wood. It is simply a short board with a batten fixed top (the stop) and
bottom (the hook) at opposite ends.
The construction of a bench hook is easy with simple tools such as a saw, hammer and nails. Use a softwood such
as pine so the nails will go in without pre-drilling. The dimensions are not important as the size basically depends
on the scrap you have at hand. 300mm x 300mm for the base is plenty with 19mm x 42mm batten (make sure its
square)
It is designed so that it can be cut into and as it wears out after many cuts, you can move the blocks and recycle it.
To make your own bench hook, go to www.woodworkforwomen.com.au
mitre box (optional)
A mitre box is mostly used for making angle or mitre cuts such as those you find in picture frames, but it also has a
facility to help you make straight cuts.
Tip: Mitre boxes only come in a few sizes which limits the width of timber you can use. One would be useful if
you are not in a position to acquire or make a bench hook, however, in that case, the lessons in this book on learning to saw straight and square without any aids will be obsolete.
panel saw
A panel saw is just another name for the general saw you see everywhere. You can get them very cheaply and they
will do this job fine.
Or electric jigsaw
You can cut the ply backing for your project with one instead of using the hand panel saw.
You may already have one of these handy tools. They can cut curves and shapes easily in wood under 12 mm
thick and are lots of fun. They range in price and vary in quality, and like most things the more you pay the better
the tool. But I got a way with a very cheap one ($25) I referred to as a toy, for quite a while. I only cut ply and
other thin materials with it that were less than 6mm thick.
A good quality one from Bosch or Makita will cost around $100.
bevel edged chisel
What to buy:
You can never compromise with a chisel. You will need to pay between $20 and $100 for a decent chisel made in
Australia, USA, Europe or Scandinavia.
If you plan to do more woodwork, consider buying a three or four piece set of 6mm 19mm 25mm. Plastic handles
are comfortable to hold and they stand up to being struck with a wooden mallet. If you only buy one, get a 18mm
or 19mm chisel. The 18mm chisels are a little harder to obtain but give extra room when cutting housing joints in
wood that’s a standard size of 19mm thick as in this project.
Tips: Be sure to buy a reputable brand because quality steel means the tool will keep its sharp edge longer. It’s easy
to be fooled by cheap chisels with pretty wooden handles. Check where they were made.
Watch out for the tool specials that come around especially for Fathers Day and Christmas.
What to buy Second Hand pic
Pay between $10 and $25
Make sure you can see an engraving on the metal blade which is usually a sign of quality. Just because it has a
wooden handle doesn’t mean it’s of good quality steel. Often older (more than 45 yrs) chisels are better quality
steel. Hold it up and sight along its blade to check that it is straight and not bent from misuse.
Check the handle is sound.
Surface rust can be removed with fine wire wool is acceptable, however deep pitting left from rust means the metal
edge will never hold its sharp edge.
How to prepare an old or neglected chisel for restoration and sharpening.
The end of the chisel may look a disaster - all rounded or chipped, but this can be resurrected by taking it to the
hardware shop where most have a sharpening service.
You must prepare the chisel before sharpening so that your sharpened edge will hold longer. If the back of the
chisel is all rusty or grimy it needs to be flattened and polished.
Clean the rust off first with wire wool, then place the flat back of the chisel onto a medium sharpening stone (or
some 240 grit sandpaper adhered to a dead flat surface of marble, granite or thick glass).
Keep the back of the chisel dead flat while you push and pull it over the surface. This is very important. You might
notice that it takes a long time to polish the entire length of the chisel, so concentrate on just the 25mm at the end,
by overhanging most of the chisel over the side of the sharpening surface.
sharpening your chisel
Chisels need sharpening and while you are learning woodwork I think it is easier to have your chisels sharpened
professionally until you are ready to learn the art of sharpening them by hand yourself. It is quite an art and I spent
many frustrating hours at the grinding wheel, sparks flying, frightened of over heating my chisel (a phenomena
called bluing) trying to get an even bevel. The second part of the sharpening job is to put a razor sharp edge on
with a sharpening stone of which there are several thousand to choose from!! Not really, but the general idea is that
you can easily blunt a chisel by trying to sharpen it because it needs to be kept at a precise angle. There are aids
called jigs to help, at a price, but for now, handing them over with polished backs (see How to prepare an old chisel
for restoration and sharpening) carefully wrapped in newspaper, means peace of mind and expediency. Use either a
tag or black felt pen on the blade to identify your chisel.
wooden mallet
A Wooden mallet usually made from hardwood, absorbs the vibrations created when striking the handle of your
chisel.
What to Buy:
They come in different sizes and weights. Rounded mallets are used with carving chisels to shape wood.
Choose one the right weight for you to control. Swing it around to see there’s not too much pressure on your wrist
but heavy enough to not bounce off the chisel.
Design - Check that the handle goes right through the head and is a wedge shape. This design prevents the head
from ‘flying off the handle’.
Pay over $20 new.
What to look for secondhand.
Check that the handle design is as above.
Tip:
Often used mallets have been abused and the ends are dented, chipped and uneven. They can be restored easily with a Bandsaw. (it’s the same type of saw they use at the butchers).
Go to your local joinery and ask them to run the damaged head through their bandsaw to renew the life of the
mallet.
g clamps
Known as G or C clamps because of their shape, they are a fastening device to hold your wood in place while you
work on it. The word Cramp is often used as well.
They are limited by their size. They take time to open and close.
Make sure your clamp is big enough to clamp around your work surface and the piece you are working on. Add to
that the thickness of a piece of scrap which will protect the clamp from digging in and damaging your wood.
What to buy:
Pay between $10 and $65 depending on quality.
I have found I can get away with cheap $10 ones as they do the job okay, however they can crack or break if they
fall heavily on concrete.
What to buy second hand:
Pay between $5 and $15 for a quality G clamp that’s not made in China.
Check there are no hairline cracks through the metal and the flat disc at the end of the screw thread is not missing.
Check the whole thread will run smoothly.
sliding clamps
There are several types of sliding clamps.
f clamps
The metal clamps with wooden handles are F-clamps and pick up where C-clamps leave off. F-clamps are similar
to bar clamps, with one fixed jaw and a second jaw that slides.
Advantages:
They slide, making them faster to use.
Disadvantages:
They dig into your wood if not protected with scrap.
Cheap large ones fall off at the slightest vibration.
quick clamps
Quick clamps allow you to position their jaws on a work piece and apply pressure, all using only one hand. There's
a lever to release the pressure when it's time to remove the clamp. With a quick modification it doubles as a
spreader to push pieces apart.
They come in many useful sizes but I prefer the 600 mm long ones so that I can use them to clamp across my
project to hold while I work on it.
Advantages:
Reasonable price
Rubber pads to protect the work piece
Disadvantages:
You need two to clamp the work as they can come loose when chiseling.
There are never enough in the workshop!
pva glue
What to buy: I find the cheaper brands are just as good on pine as the more expensive brands however, if I am
using hardwoods then I switch to Titebond yellow PVA. Waterproof PVA is also available, but has less shelf life
when opened.
nail punch
What to buy:
You just need the one but you might buy a set of five with different size heads. Make sure the heads have a slight
indentation and are not flat. They will grip the head of the nail better with less chance of it slipping off and
damaging your work piece. If you treat it kindly (see tool care) a cheap set will last.